Auto Block On Double Rope Rappel

It is unique in that it is a fully certified 22kn sling that can be used anywhere a normal sling is used.

Auto block on double rope rappel. Use the lower hand to feed the rope up through the belay device while the top hand moves the auto block down the rope so it doesn t tighten. How to use an auto block to backup your rappel. Obsession climbing 20 250 views. The loop is used when setting up the belay device at an anchor so that the belayer can top belay a second.

Auto block tubular belay devices have an additional metal loop on the side. French prusik knot auto block rappel backup duration. At the bottom or the next anchor call off rappel to your belayer. Basics to keep in mind.

The knot is the best back up simply because it does two jobs exceedingly well. The autoblock knot an easy to tie friction knot or hitch that is tied around a climbing rope with a thin length of cord is used as a safety back up knot when you re rappelling. It locks under load and unlike all other friction knots it releases while still under load. One of the most common mistakes is the failure to capture both strands of a double rope rappel in the rappel device.

In a multi pitch rappel setting this decreases the likelihood of ropes getting stuck and provides the security of a closed system. Presenter darrell weston videographer matt blecharz. An auto block is a rappel backup or a third hand meaning if you get knocked unconscious or lose control of the rope it will tighten up and keep you from plummeting downward. We observed less resistance with some of the single strand devices however in our testing with a 9 5 mm sterling rope and a petzl attache carabiner we found the resistance with the.

Setting up rappel device for double rope rappel duration. Set it up correctly. Auto block resistance belaying a second high friction in auto block mode plagued all the devices capable of double rope rappels especially the smart alpine. A 5 5mm sewn rope sling made with technora aramid core and nylon sheath.

Designed for use as an auto block knot prusik on single or double ropes to protect you on rappel or aid in ascending the rope in emergency. Top belaying with the device is called guide or reverso mode and offers an auto blocking advantage on the rope if the climber were to fall.